Rewind : Lampada Orange County
Rewind: Lampada Farfalle
Work In Progress…
Finding Dreams In A Shadow Box: A Little Cow Grazes On Abloom Meadows
Chasing Life In A Shadow Box: Polla’s Daydream
Fender-ST-Style : Pick & Music
1° Step : Pickguard & Fabric.
A Strat-pickguard and an adequate beautiful 100% cotton fabric. To custom and decorate my pickguard with the decoupage technique I need first scissors to cut out my fabric and a soft pencil to design the pickguard’s template on the fabric’s rear side and vinyl glue (or special fabric-glue). Then a flat brush to spread a fair glue measure on the pickguard to paste the chosen fabric and some plastic or wooden clips, or pegs, to apply around the edges to hold the fabric down while the glue dries. Finally, I need a satin water-based varnish gel to create a protective and anti-scratch film with a good resistance to mechanical agents. I apply a thick and uniform coat with a specific flat smooth brush. Let it dry for at least four hours and then I repeat twice, or more times, as to get a hard, solid and strong last finishing.
3° Step : Photo & Tutorial.
Vinyl Glue / Fabric & Paper
The vinyl glue is one of the most used adhesives, often known by its trade name Vinavil, but there are several brands and manufacturers on the market. The most commonly used vinyl synthetic resin is polyvinyl acetate (PVAc) in an aqueous emulsion, which has a variety of use in industries, in art and hobby, in handcrafted works, in book-binding and book arts, due to its flexible strong bond and non-acidic nature, usually without need for primers. However, there are also the related polymer polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) adhesives diluted in solvent solutions. Polyvinyl acetate belongs to the polyvinyl esters family and is a type of thermoplastic; these glue types are also referred to as wood glue, white and school glue, or carpenters glue and so on. The vinyl glue looks like a white liquid, milky, with a characteristic slightly acidulous smell, and remains consistent in its quality to conform specific standards. The advantages are low price and toxicity, simple use, and good sticking efficiency. The main disadvantage is the average long drying up time.
I use the vinyl glue to bond the fabric (linen, cotton or silk, gobelin and batiste) to the polystyrene lampshade panel, as well as to the wooden or metal bases, diluted in water in the required amount according to the material resistance and porosity (well-finished or unrefined, smooth and waterproof, thick or thin). The usually needed percentage glue-water is in the ratio of 1 to 2. But it is necessary to test the materials’ characteristics, to adjust the water measure. Thanks to the decoupage technique, I also paste art-paper, decorative cardboard, silk or soft-paper, tissue and vellum paper, Japanese washi-paper to lampshades and bases. When the glue is dry, it gets an elastic consistency and is transparent, smooth to the touch: so it can easily stick and protect all decorative elements.
If the material is porous, or fine and delicate, I apply a thin glue coat with a flat brush; on the contrary, I apply on the surface a good glue coat if the support is particularly porous. To hold the fabric, or paper, I use one or more plastic binder clips.
Once the gluing process is over, the finished shade has to rest for up 12 hours, to allow the adhesive the ability to completely bond. The best tips for gluing vinyl include adequately cleaning the project area, working in small sections at a time, and following proper safety precautions; such as, wearing gloves while working with vinyl adhesives to stick silk-fabric and delicate art-paper. A clean area provides an easier surface for the glue to attach to, as well as a longer hold between two different materials. I avoid not properly aligned edges and air balls beneath the surface of fabric, or paper, by working in small sections; as well, I clean immediately dripping glue with a damp cloth.
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